EBC Day 12

Sorry, I've been a bit behind in my daily updates of the boys' trip. As they are ahead of schedule by a couple of days now, the given plan has gone by the by but as I have nothing else to go on as we haven't spoken, then I will stick with the paper plan.

PLAN: 
- Gorak Shep (5288 metres elevation); walk approximately 3-4 hours.
- Climb Kalapathar (5546 metres); approximately 4 hours.

Today, they are high amongst the glaciers of the world's highest peaks and will trek along the Khumbu glacier. The trail heads towards the high village called Gorak Shep. After a rest, they'll climb Kalapathar, a small, rocky peak on the south-west ridge of Pumori. It won't be an easy climb but it's worth it by all accounts;

"...the view from the top surpasses the wildest imagination.'

They may hear the glaciers creaking under pressure (I'd love to hear that!) and the surrounding peaks will be pretty awesome - Pumori, Nuptse, Changste, Ama Dablam, Tawache, Kanega and of course Everest.


About 3km east and 200m below the base camp can be seen in a bowl at the bottom of the notorious Khumbu ice fall. Many trekkers find this point at Kalapathar an emotional experience. It's back to Goark Shep for the overnight stay.


After sunset it becomes very cold despite the strength of the sun during the day.

EBC Day 11 + Amendment

Plan: Lobuche (elevation 4630 metres); walk approximately 5-6 hours

The early morning sunshine is welcome after a cold night. They'll wake up to a beautiful panorama of the peaks. They will be walking in the flanks of Awi Peak, above the village of Chola and carry on past Cholatse Lake. Beyond the lake the Chola Glacier flows from the saddle between the cliffs of Cholatse and Tawache.


The walk will continue to eventually join with the busy trail to Everest Base Camp itself. The slopes will be barren above the tree line and Cholatse, Lobuche and Pumari peaks will be in view. Rock cairns will be seen dedicated to the memory of the climbers who attempted the high mountains at Dugla Ridge.

Walking on to the moraine of Khumbu Glacier (the longest in Nepal) to Lobuche for the overnight camp, they will notice the drop in temperature as they are more exposed.

Amendment: I spoke to Hubby very briefly this afternoon. They are two days ahead of schedule! So this plan and blog are to be read just for interest's sake rather than definitive factual placing of them day to day! That's gone out of the window!

They are extremely tired now, I'm not surprised, it sounds like they've really gone for it. They went to see the actual Base Camp today rather than the planned morning excursion on the 7th May (Saturday). I think they'll have a few extra days back in Namche Bazaar. They had better rest and recuperate before flying back here to be thrown back to reality (well, as far as you can call living in Oman reality! ;-) )

EBC Day 10

PLAN: Chola Pass (elevation 5335 metres) and Dzongla (4843 metres); walk approximately 6-7 hours.

Another early start to take advantage of the stable early morning weather pattern in the Himalyas. It takes about 3-4 hours depending on the weather conditions to reach the saddle of the Pass. They'll have time on the trip here to stop and take everything in. The guide sees this point as a special highlight of the trip with the peaks rising above them.

"Words fail to describe the beauty of Nature and sense of achievement to be on the Pass"

EBC Day 9 and a memorable birthday + Amendment

PLAN:

- Ascent of Gokyo Ri (elevation 5483 metres); walk approximately 5 hours
- Trek to Thangna (4700 metres); walk approximately 3 hours

It's a early start today and so it should be seeing as it's Wasabi Boy's 40th Birthday!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Not that he'll be reading this where he is of course!

So today they'll steadily ascend Gokyo Ri - the duration is depending on their level of fitness and how well they've acclimatised so far. It should be one of the best panoramic views in Nepal. From the rocky summit four peaks higher than 8000 metres can be seen; Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8481m ), and Cho-Oyu (8153m) [worth mentioning these are not the exact heights...every site I looked at had different figures so I have gone with the heights that the Guide has given].

There will be plenty of other peaks to see all around 6500m. Below them will be the Ngozumpa Glacier that stretches through the valley. The lakes should be a beautifully striking colour and I think it will all make for some incredible and awe-inspiring photographs of the Gokyo Valley. I can imagine they will not do it justice.

They will then make their way across the glacier to Thangna, it looks like quite a meandering trail.

Along with keeping an eye out for the Yeti ;-) they may see the Himalayan Thar (or Tahr) on the rocky slopes...they are not hunted here and are not too shy apparently.

Wasabi boy is the new name for Aussie...lets just say he bought a jacket that was not green, it was wasabi and the others aren't letting him forget it. However, they haven't all got away with it. Kiwi should be Ricky Pule (another one for the Monty Python fans out there) as he has a 'stylist' back here in Muscat! 

So today is the day that prompted this trip in the beginning. Happy birthday from us all. I hope today is a truly fantastic memory that will stay with you.
Enjoy and treasure!

Addition from the birthday boy - he called home this morning. All is still fantastic. But they are starting to feel tired now. They were up at 0400 their time (0215 Oman/2315 BST). All are acclimatising well, a couple have had headaches but so far, so good. Hubby seems to be the one that has acclimatised the best...I suspect thanks to his Dad taking him walking in the Scottish mountains every weekend...not quite the same league but training nonetheless! See, Grampa, all your hard work is paying off!

WB also said the views were spectacular especially when they watched the sun rise with Everest in view. How amazing...

And to top it all he was presented with a massive Yo-yo to take up and eat on his birthday, made by the awesome Auntie S. What a day already!

If you don't know what a Yo-yo is (I didn't until I met these guys), it's a cake made of two sweet dough circles and a filling in the middle...put together to look like a toy yo-yo (the latter fact only dawned on me a few weeks back :-/ My family and friends know I'm a bit special sometimes...).

EBC Day 8

PLAN: Gokyo (elevation 4754 metres); walk approximately 5-6 hours.

It is another gradual ascent again, this time to Gokyo village. They will now be in alpine country.


They'll see the Ngozumpa Glacier ( the largest glacier in Nepal) and cross on to the moraine and rock that extends from it. They'll have views of Kantega to the south, Cholatse to the east and Cho-Oyu to the north. Once they have ascended the snout of the glacier the path starts to level and runs parallel to the Ngozumpa Glacier; separating them from the glacier is the huge lateral moraine - this is a parallel ridge of debris deposited along the sides of a glacier. 

Picture from yesterday to help with today's geography lesson!

They will pass Longpongo (first lake) and Taochelake (second lake) where Tibetan ducks are often seen swimming in the freezing water. Then they will reach the third lake called Dudh Pokhari at Gokyo village.

Not much detail to add to these last few posts as we have not heard from them since Friday.

Kiwi's wife (new name Mad Murphy until she tells me not to call her this!)  has just spoken to her man.  No detail as yet, but just good to hear they're all ok.

EBC Day 7

PLAN: Macchermo (elevation 4410m); walk approximately 3-4 hours.

The plan is to ascend slowly through the Dudh Koshi valley - as you can see from the image above they will walk along the Dudh Koshi river, but higher up in the valley. The guide in the itinerary states that although they will probably find the walking easy, they might start to feel the effects of altitude in even the smallest hill.


So they should start to be above the tree line and the hillsides turn brown and barren, with only the odd small cluster of juniper ("they're MY juniper bushes!" for you Python fans) to break it up. So a bit of contrast now it seems to the snowy mountains and blue sky they have been seeing.


After lunch there is an option (bet they take it) to take an excursion across the rocky moraines (A moraine is a rock formation that was created by the movement of a glacier; the glacier would have deposited rocks and stones as it moved) to the base of Kyojo Ri (6168m) and Macchermo Peak (6073m).

And this is where they have to keep their wits about them...they have to keep their eye out for the Yeti!!! Dah dah DAAAAAAH! It is here is 1974 that three yaks were killed and a Sherpa girl was badly injured when trying to fight off a hairy ape-like creature.

EBC Day 6

PLAN: Dole (4040 metres elevation); walk approximately 5-6 hours.

Today they will follow the Gokyo valley trail around Khumbila (5761 metres). This is the holy mountain for the local people.


They will ascend through birch forest and yak pastures to a stupa† (3992m) on the top of a rocky village called Mon La Stupa. The views of Everest loom above the Lhotse (8511m) and Nuptse (7896m) on the north-eastern skyline. Below they will see the meeting of the Dudh Koshi and Imja Khola. Across the valley there is Thyangboche monastery which is surrounded by Ama Dablam (6856m) and Kantega (6685m).

Ama Dablam

Thyangpoche Monastery

 From the stupa they will descend on a few switchback trails to Phortse Tenga and then a short climb will get them on the trail to view first view of the mountain Cho – Oyu (8153m) at the head of the valley.


They’ll come above the tree line and pass several temporary yak-herding settlements before reaching Dole. They’ll see some waterfalls and will stop to see the glaciers that flow from Tawatse (6542m) and Cholatse (6440nm) on the opposite side of the valley.


On this part of the trek they will not see many trekkers and locals; the guide suggests that this isolation of the trail is a pleasure. I agree…but I think this could be the point that they really start to feel it, physically as well as the realisation of where they are and how remote they are. The other quote in Hubby’s notebook probably applies here…

"He is able, who thinks he is able”

† A stupa is a type of shrine that is the most sacred monument found in all of the ancient Buddhist countries. Stupas are filled with sacred images, mantras and the relics of holy beings.

                                                       

                                                                 Sarnath Stupa

Bodnath Stupa

EBC Day 3

Remember, a plan is a basis for change - this is based on the itinerary given and so when I hear updates, I'll amend the post.

Namche Bazaar (3440m elevation); walk approximately 5-6 hours.

PLAN: Passing through the forest and terraces, they'll cross and recross the glacial river Dudh Koshi. They should see groups of yaks (much to the Antipodeans' amusement, I feel) and dzopki carrying the trek-gear and trading goods along the trail. They'll see spectacular peaks like Nupla (5885m), Kongde Ri (6093m) and Thamserku (6808m).

(I think a dzopki is a cow).

This is the time that they need to start to acclimatise ... and slowly. They will go on to the Sagarmatha National Park, a world heritage site. They'll then walk along the river to the meeting of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi and then cross a high bridge before starting the ascent to the village of Namche Bazaar, a gateway to Everest.

It is here, as they pass through the pine forest of rhododendron and magnolia, they have their first view of Mount Everest. I wonder if a few man hugs and chest bumps will commence along with the odd tearful eye (from hubby more likely!).

So, today was the start of the long haul. I managed to speak to Hubby today! Isn’t modern technology brilliant…I can speak to him all the way in the Himalayas.

On the general plan, it was anticipated that the walk to Namche Bazaar would take 5-6 hours. It took them 5 and a half in total, 2 of which were quite a steep climb through the pine forests and rhododendrons, to get to the teahouse at Namche Bazaar. The boys love it here. The guide is pleased with their ability and progress. He does, however want them to slow down over the next couple of days so that they can begin to acclimatise efficiently.

I asked about the flight into Lukla! He didn’t seem bothered about it at all, just commenting on how steep it was and how funny it was to see villages on the steep hillside. He thinks the take-off will be a little more ‘sporting’!

The weather at the moment there is sunny, not too hot with a little breeze; they’re able to wear t-shirts. He described it as like walking in Scotland but on a bigger scale.

I asked about what they have been eating and to be honest, it doesn’t seem much different to what he eats when at work here! Chicken curry, rice and dal! They have been advised on what food to avoid and with good reason;

- milk – as the milk is in powdered form it’s not known how long it’s been lying around;

- from Namche Bazaar onwards, cheese should be avoided seeing as it takes so long for anything to get this far at least;

- and for the same reason, they should not eat the meat as it takes some time to get the meat delivered by packhorse. From Khumjung onwards, it is mostly Buddhist and therefore no animal is killed and so it has to be delivered this far. Buddhists are predominantly vegetarians too so what meat there is has probably been there for some time.

He has taken a picture of the Mani walls for me; he said they are everywhere. Out of respect, and in Buddhist custom, you should walk to the left of the wall, or clockwise around it. It's thought that this 'direction' symbolises the direction in which the earth turns. I think I really need to go to this place and the surrounding area…Tibet is on my travel radar.

One interesting point is that he could have arrived in Kathmandu with no equipment whatsoever and bought all he needed there and then! It is a town of outdoor equipment; copies, but excellent copies nonetheless!

And here is their first view of Everest:

Everest: left of centre at the back. Right to left, Ama Dablam, Lohtse Sar, Lohtse, Everest, Nuptse, Tabuche (nearest, in cloud).

When hubby left for the trip her said he'd be quite happy to get to the Base Camp and see Everest from there. This has changed...I think he now has an urge to get to the summit! Once I've done my trip, he can go! :-p

EBC Day 2 + amendment

Flight to Lukla (2600 metres); trek to Phakding; walk approximately 3 hours.

It looks like an early start for the boys. They’ll head off to the STOL airport (short take off and landing – see the video link from yesterday!) of Lukla. It takes 45 minutes and is described as a thrilling mountain flight…I can think of a few more descriptive words! I’m not sure I’d take a breath for the last 10 minutes!

The airstrip at Lukla was built by Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. It was renamed in 2008 to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in recognition for their efforts in reaching the summit of Everest and also for their assistance in building the airport. The pair was also involved in building schools and hospitals for the local Sherpa people. I’m surprised it wasn’t renamed this earlier on…

‘There are daily flights between Lukla and Kathmandu during daylight hours with good weather. Although the flying distance is short, it can easily be raining in Lukla while the sun is shining brightly in Kathmandu. High Winds, cloud cover and changing visibility often mean flights can be delayed or the airport closed completely.’

From Lukla, they will trek downhill towards the Dudh Koshi (milky river), a river that flows from the highest mountains. It is a fairly easy and well-marked route and passes through the potato and wheat fields. They’ll reach the vicinity of Phakding after passing through traditional villages, and then spend their first night stay at the Lodge.

On the way they’ll pass many ‘Mani Walls’, many stone tablets that all have the Buddhist chant on them; ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’. All the teachings of the Buddha are contained in this mantra: Om Mani Padme Hum can not really be translated into a simple phrase or sentence but is considered generally to ‘mean’ Hail to the jewel on the lotus’.

POST EDIT: Update from Mrs. Kiwi: The trek took them 3.5 hours; they passed porters who were carrying 120kg bags of rice; most others carried 20kgs; the hotel was nicer than expected and they all seem very happy with everything!

Nepal, Country and Climate

(Info taken from visitnepal.com and bbc.co.uk/weather)

http://www.visitnepal.com/travelers_guide/when_to_come.php and http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/hi/country_guides/newsid_9384000/9384185.stm

This small, landlocked, mountainous country lies on the southern side of the Himalayan Mountains between Tibet (an autonomous region of China) to the north, and India to the west, south, and east. It includes within, or along its northern border, some of the highest mountains in the world; Everest rises to 8,848 m/29,028 ft. The country is only between 160 km/100 mi and 240 km/150 mi wide from north to south, and in this distance the altitude decreases from the high Himalayan peaks to the lowlands of the Terai region of northern India. So in Nepal a range of climatic conditions from tropical forest or jungle to the permanent snowfields and glaciers of the Himalayas.

The weather and climate are controlled by the same general features as those described for India: the seasonal alternation of the monsoon winds. The main rainy season in Nepal is from late June to September. This is a period of warm to hot temperatures, much cloud, and frequent heavy rain. At this time sunshine averages only two to three hours a day. During the rest of the year the weather is much more settled and pleasant. The days are mild or even warm, except on the higher mountains, and sunshine averages from six to nine hours a day.
Apart from some danger of flooding during the heaviest rains, the climate of Nepal is rarely hazardous and for much of the year is very pleasant.
Seasons
Nepal has four climatic seasons.
Spring (between March – May): The temperature is mildly warm in low lands while moderate in higher altitudes with plenty of opportunities to have tryst with the mountain views. It is also the time for flowers to blossom and the colourful national flower of Nepal – rhododendron sweeps the mountainside.
Summer (between June – August): This is also the monsoon season in Nepal. The weather is hot and wet at times. It rains almost everyday with occasional thunderstorms in the evening. The rain spreads the pleasantness around with lush green vegetation.

Autumn (between September – November): This is the best tourist season in Nepal with the summer gone by and the winter to set in. The weather is highly pleasant so are the mountain views. This is the peak season for trekking as mountain views are guaranteed so better book your flight in advance. This is also the season of festivities as Nepal celebrates the biggest Hindu festivals Dashain followed by Tihar.

Winter (between December – February): The weather is cool and the sky is clear with occasional snowfalls at higher elevations. This season is good for trekking in lower elevations. The morning and night is cold and the days are warm when sunny.

Temperature & rainfall
Nepal is the country of extremes. The low-land plains of the Terai can have tropical temperatures and also the mosquitoes. The Himalayas can get to sub-zero temperatures, but the sun blaze can bring some warmth during the day, even in the mountains. The temperature of Kathmandu goes below 1 Degree Celsius (34 Degree Fahrenheit) in winter and rises to an average of 25 Degree Celsius (77 Degree Fahrenheit) in summer.


The average temperature in Kathmandu during the four seasons:


* Spring season ranges between 16-23 Degree Celsius (61-73 Degree Fahrenheit)
 * Summer season ranges between 23-25 Degree Celsius (73-77 Degree Fahrenheit)
* Autumn season ranges between 15-24 Degree Celsius (59-75 Degree Fahrenheit)
* Winter season ranges between 9-12 Degree Celsius (48-54 Degree Fahrenheit)


During the rainy monsoon season between June to August, it rains to an average between 200-375 millimeters in Kathmandu. There is occasional rainfall during the other seasons too. In an average, 1300 millimeters of rain falls in Kathmandu every year.


Travel Tips: Monsoon in Nepal is not the typical monsoon of Asia. Rains usually occur during the night-time leaving the sky clean and clear by the morning making the Himalayan view even more dramatic. Some parts of the Himalayas in Manang, Mustang and Dolpo are in rain-shadow areas; the mountains are high enough to block the clouds. Tibet's high travel season also corresponds to Nepal's monsoon.


As an aside, this is an interesting article, if you're interested in climate change:
http://cleantechnica.com/2011/01/04/nepal-has-11-hour-blackouts-as-climate-change-dries-up-its-rivers


Tomorrow is Day 3...now comes the hard work! A 5-6 hour trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 metre elevation).